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初心者がサーフィンを安全に楽しむために知っておくべきこと

What beginners need to know to enjoy surfing safely

Once you have all the boards and wets, it's time to go out into the ocean and try surfing, but before that, there's something important.

Surfing is a sport that you do by yourself, but the other person is natural.

Besides myself, there are surfers who enjoy surfing in the sea.

For fun, know how to be safe at sea and the rules and etiquette to share nature with other surfers and have fun!

To understand the rules and manners of surfing, it will be smooth if you know the name of the wave, so please read it by comparing it with this illustration.

 サーフィン 波の名称

 

table of contents

1. Surfing rules

 Basic rules for surfing
 1.1. One-man one-wave
 1.2. Peak priority
 1.3. Drop-in (front ride) violates the rules
 Manners at the time of getting out
 1.4. Avoid riding areas
 1.5. Take-off priority
 1.6. Confirm aloud for safety
 1.7. Avoid paddles directly behind the surfer
 Riding
 

2. Be careful about safety

 2.1. Get in shape and condition
 2.2. Warm up
 2.3. Understanding the weather and sea conditions
 2.4. Understanding the tide flow at the point
 2.5. Scratches and injuries
 2.6. Check for the presence of dangerous organisms
  
 
 

1. Surfing rules

There are some basic rules to keep in mind when surfing. It is the basics necessary for everyone to enjoy surfing safely, and it is a rule and etiquette common to the whole world, so let's first understand and follow it firmly.

Basic rules for surfing

1.1. One-man one-wave

Only one person can ride one wave. It is called "one-man one-wave".

1.2. Peak priority

Take off first at the place closest to the peak of the wave (where the wave begins to collapse)Standing up on the momentum of the waves)The person who did it has priority. This is called the "peak priority" rule.

After the takeoff, ride in the direction of the waves breaking. It is the one that catches the peak and has a surfer trying to take off, but it takes off on the shoulder side (the place before the peak in the direction of the wave collapse) and hinders the direction of the surfer who has priority. It is a rule violation.

1.3. Drop-in (front ride) violates the rules

That the surfers will take off in the same direction as the waves they are already riding"Front ride" or "drop-in" in surfing termsIs called. 

It is a violation of the rules and a dangerous act for surfers with priority. Look around when you're about to take off, and if you notice a surfer who's trying to take off closer to the peak than you are, give up the wave.

If you make a mistake and get in front of you and you're about to hit, apologize immediately and make sure your surfer isn't injured.

Especially for beginners, it is often the case that they are desperate for their takeoff and cannot see their surroundings. However, if you are careful as much as possible, the surfers who have caused trouble will understand.

In my opinion, in lifeNeverI think there are few surfers who have never taken the front ride.

If you should get angry, don't be afraid. Let's make use of our reflection next.

前乗り ドロップイン

 

Manners at the time of getting out

Going offshore toward the point is called "getting out" or "going out".

1.4. Avoid riding areas

When getting out to the point, try to avoid the riding area as much as possible to avoid approaching or colliding with the surfer while riding. It can be difficult to avoid the riding area depending on the surf point. In that case, be very careful (preferably read the interval between the wave sets) and try to pass through the area quickly between breaks so that it doesn't get in the way of your riding as much as possible.

1.5. Take-off priority

It is a violation of etiquette to approach the surfer taking off while getting out, and to cross in front of the surfer taking off in the direction of the wave break when approaching and passing each other. increase.

Even if you get caught up in the waves by avoiding surfers taking off, it's important to avoid a collision between the two, so be sure to protect it.

テイクオフ

1.6. Confirm aloud for safety

It may be difficult to see due to the sun's rays or the reflection of the sea surface, and the surfer riding may approach you unnoticed while getting out. In such cases, let's call out to call attention. Calling out like "Hey!" Is a safety measure, so let's speak out without hesitation to convey your existence.

1.7. Avoid paddles directly behind the surfer

In the unlikely event that the surfer ahead is pushed back by the waves and hits, or if you let go of the surfboard in some way, you could hit the board and get injured. For your safety, avoid getting out or paddling right behind the surfer.

ゲティングアウト

 

Riding

Each person who enjoys surfing has different skills and physical strength, so if you are riding and the surfer who is getting out in front of you is not likely to be avoided, even if you have priority, pull out (riding) I think it is also necessary to stop and see off the waves) to avoid the danger. Observing the basic rules is the first priority, but it is necessary to make flexible decisions according to the situation.

 

 

2. Be careful about safety

2.1. Get in shape and condition

Surfing is a sport performed in the nature of the sea and waves, and requires endurance, basic physical strength, and swimming ability. Above all, it is important to manage your physical condition on a regular basis.

If possible, train regularly and get plenty of rest and sleep the day before you go out to sea.

2.2. Warm up

When you get to the sea, you will want to get into the water right away, but before that, be sure to warm up and stretch enough to increase the flexibility of your body muscles and joints, activate cardiopulmonary function, and exercise vigorously. Get ready for your body. It is important to prevent injuries and accidents, so please keep this in mind.

2.3. Understanding the weather and sea conditions

From weather forecasts and weather maps, and recently, wave information services have become widespread, so check in advance the weather at the point, the direction and strength of the wind, the height and swell of the waves, etc. to the extent possible. please give me. Be sure to check not only the tide level and wave conditions, but also the weather forecast to see if there are any effects such as lightning or typhoons.

Since there are no lightning objects at sea, it is extremely dangerous if lightning strikes, which can easily lead to accidents caused by lightning. Depending on the weather and swell conditions, it is important to make the decision not to go out to sea to ensure safety.

Also, when there is a typhoon or strong swell, a completely different state will be created due to changes in the conditions of the seabed and currents, whether it is a beach break or a reef break, so you need to be careful even in the sea you are accustomed to.

2.4. Understanding the tide flow at the point

Lip current (rip current)

 リップカレント

If you look carefully at the sea, there is a flow of seawater that has come toward the shore and returns offshore between the points where the waves hit. This is the lip current (rip current), and as you get used to the sea, you use this flow to head to the point, but while you are waiting for the waves, you get on this lip current without noticing it and go offshore. It may be washed away.

First, be careful not to follow this trend. If you still get on the current and notice that it is being washed off the coast, paddle to the left or right parallel to the shore instead of returning to the shore to move away from the current. If you go offshore and are in a hurry, you will definitely want to go to the shore, but since the current is strong, it will consume your physical strength, so remember to "paddle sideways".

Special conditions such as around the wave-dissipating block

In addition, there is a complicated tide flow around the wave-dissipating block, so once you grab it, you may not be able to get out of it. Please keep away from beginners, those who are accustomed to surfing, and those who are confident in their physical strength.

2.5. Scratches and injuries

In the unlikely event of injury or injury, seawater is rich in bacteria and bacteria, making the wound prone to suppuration. If you are injured or injured, get out of the sea immediately and take care of it. Be sure to bring a minimum of treatment tools such as a first aid kit. Also, don't forget to prepare fresh water to wash the wound.

2.6. Check for the presence of dangerous organisms

It is advisable to check in advance information on sharks and, depending on the season, the existence of dangerous seaside creatures such as jellyfish and stingrays. If possible, it is safe to check with an emergency medical institution just in case. Even if it is dangerous in the sea, it is difficult for others to notice it, and it takes time to go to help, so first try to ensure your own safety.





 

 

 

 

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